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Cottage doorway |
Lunch was taken at The Bell. 'I can recommend the watercress quiche Sir' commented the waitress as I thumbed through the menu. 'Yes, that will do nicely and I will try your watercress ale too, please.' A visitor for the day is left in no doubt that the olde worlde Georgian village of Alresford, in Hampshire, is the watercress capital of Britain. I was attracted initially by the Watercress line which was once used to take watercress up to London. This line was closed in 1973 but a 10 mile stretch between Alresford and Alton, restored in sections, became fully operational in 1985. Both steam trains and locomotives run pleasure trips and I was on my way to the station to check the timetable for the steam engine. It was not until 3pm so it left me time to explore the village. Dropping in first to the Station Visitor Centre, I picked up a leaflet for Alresford Millennium Trail, a mile long walk taking in many of the town's points on interest. I quickly discovered that Alresford is actually pronounced 'Allsford.' Arguments persist about the origins of its name but I like the idea it derives from the ford by the alders or Aldersford. It is even suggested it is spelt wrongly in the Doomsday Book. All that apart, I soon learnt
its history is bound up as much with water as watercress. The clear chalk streams, now aiding extensive watercress beds, have attracted settlers from very early ages. The River Arle too is very much part of the town and where you can find the beautiful 13th century Fulling Mill pictured right. Eye-catching Georgian houses on Broad Street have their own stories to tell. The walls of No 50 'Old Mill House' listened to planning talks for the D-day invasion and Nancy Mitford lived in a house opposite for a time. Higher up Broad Street, the Caracoli tea house looked too inviting to miss so I settled on their rear patio garden for another watercress speciality, watercress scones!
Signal box at Alresford Station Horse & Groom
Such are the health giving properties of watercress, grown here since around the 1860's, I completed the Millennium trail with considerable ease. Back at the station, I was nicely in time for a return trip on the Mid Hampshire Railway to Alton. Puffing and spluttering steam and smoke, The Sherwood Forester was there waiting to haul its way up a 1in 60 incline to the next station, Medstead & Four Marks some 625ft above sea level. From there it is down a similar slope to Alton. A great opportunity for photographers is presented while the engine shunts from the rear around to the front of the train for the return journey. Mid Hampshire railway also has a full working model of Thomas the tank engine which they bring out on children's days. Reduced to ashes in the 17th century, Alresford emerged as a Georgian town which has mellowed with age into something rather special. Watercress apart, there is much to see and admire. It deserves more than one day so I for one will be back.
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