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A city built over two islands connected by waterways and bridges,
 Copenhagen,
or Merchant Harbour, lives up to its Hans Christian Andersen fairytale
image amongst the bustle of its old centre. It’s amazing to imagine that
in a country of five million people almost a third live in the city.
Denmark also has 7,000 km/4,375mi. of coastline, half of which is sandy
beach. For those, like us, confused with the pronunciation of the hagen
part of the name, local knowledge assured us it is the ‘a’ sound as in
‘cake’. Time can easily be spent in and around the old centre but
shopaholics could be drawn to Field’s. This is the largest shopping centre
in Skandinavia, within an impressive architectural setting, sited on
Christianshavn a close train ride away. City escapees might wish to
venture even further afield to visit quaint Dragoer Medieval Fishing
Village. Whatever your choice, there is too much to see in one day so a
return visit will be high on most return visit agendas.
Cathedral |
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 A Cruise
Information Centre is on hand at the Langelinie Cruise Pier where ships
dock. Here you can obtain all necessary information and assistance towards
making your visit memorable. If the intention is to make use of buses,
trains and the metro, purchase a ‘clip card’, available at stations or on
buses (buses require the exact fare in DKK). In 2006 £1 = DKK (Danish
Kroner)11 and a blue ‘clip card’ cost DKK 115 for 10 rides. Punch the card
in the yellow card-clipping machine at the station or when boarding a bus.
Alternatively, there are Hop-On Hop-Off buses at DDK 120 for 1 day or DKK
140 for 2 days. You can only use 1 line with the 1 day ticket but any line
with the 2 day ticket. For Yellow sea buses, use the same ticket as the
sight-seeing buses. Taxis can be hailed on the
street or found at designated stands and usually hold 4 passengers. It is
cheaper to hail a taxi than order one by telephone. Tips are included in
the price but it is normal to round it up a little. You can even pay by
credit card but mention this beforehand. Credit cards
are widely accepted and the Danish Kroner the accepted currency.
Occasionally, euros or dollars
St Albans
might be
accepted but this shouldn’t be relied upon.
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Where to start? An easy option is the
shuttle bus but, if a more leisurely day is envisaged and the |
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ALBAN’S church, built 1885-87, close by, is
known as the English church. From Medieval
times, the English had to make-do with temporary places of worship until
the Danish Princess Alexander married the future King Edward VII of
Britain and influenced a change. Also nearby is
the Danish WWII Freedom Museum. If the Danish Royal Yacht is in harbour,
it might be anchored off here. If you notice two wooden pavillions on the
quayside, these were used by the ‘Royals’ when waving off departing
guests. The imposing new Opera House lies across the water, opposite the
road to the Amalienborg Palace complex and Cathedral. Five floors of the
Opera House
Nyhavn
lie above ground and there
are an equal number beneath with the roof projecting 34 meters/111.5ft.
over the foyer and water. Four palaces form a large circle around which
some traffic circulates. The Queen’s residence is the one with guards
outside, whilst her son lives in
King Christian IV
another and family members in the further two. Behind is the
towering dome of the Cathedral. The delightful harbour side of Nyhavn is
soon reached. Only old wooden sailing ships are allowed to anchor within
this picturesque harbour. This is the place to capture a feel of an older
Copenhagen where colourful façades overlook the swirl of life below. Three
of the houses along here can lay claim to having been home to Hans
Christian Andersen at various times. The walk ends here but opportunities
for further exploration beckon.
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 At the
top end of Nyhavn is the Royal Theatre, which fronts sophisticated
Kongens Nytorv Square. Search out the Cruise Lounge on the third floor of
MAGASIN department store here and enjoy a cup coffee/tea or water by
showing your cruise liner pass. Hans Christian Andersen was a one time
resident here when the building was the Hotel du Nord then lived next door
in an attic room. This attic room would still look familiar to the writer
today and has been transformed into the only exhibition of his life in the
city. Free access can be had from the third floor of the store itself.Leading from Kongens Nytorv (King’s Square) to the Town Hall is the world’s longest pedestrian shopping street Stroget with something for everyone. Out of the city, beyond the airport, is Dragoer Medieval Fishing Village. This gem was the marketplace of Hanseatic merchants and thrived on fishing during the 16th and 17th centuries. Now it is a living, pedestrianised museum whose inhabitants are mainly flight personnel from the nearby airport. A delight to wander its narrow streets and note the two-way exterior mirrors so that occupants can nosey up and down the street from the comfort of their lounge. Ornamental dogs in the window looked out when their master was at sea and were turned inwards when he was at home. There are handicraft shops and cafes in the village and on the harbour front.
For more information: check Copenhagen Return to Contents or Baltic Gems |
weather is fine, why not opt for the two kilometre scenic walk into the
centre from the Langelinie Pier! Just follow the pedestrian promenade
along the harbour past parkland and taking in some of the major sights
along the way. The statue of a Greenland ice bear nearby is a reminder
that Greenland is part of Denmark. Across the water, left, the huge
windmill-style structure is a mast crane, from the mid 1700’s, used to
lift masts off ships. Naval officers are currently converting the grey
frigate in front of the crane into a museum, whilst the building with the
crown atop is the Customs House from where daily cannon fire alerts the
citizens at sunrise and sunset. Reach The Little Mermaid statue, which is
close enough to touch at present and in danger of being worn away, but
plans are afoot to move it further out into the harbour. Beyond, across
the moat on the right lies the Old Citadel, once a prominent fortress
protecting the city, its star shape only clearly visible from the air. If
you chance upon neat rows of yellow painted houses nearby, they were built
by Christian IV 1588-1648 for his sailors. Reach the Gefion Fountain, the
cities largest monument and mythical reason behind its existence. In a
nutshell, the goddess Gefion was given permission by the Swedish king to
plough enough land in one day and one night to use any way she wanted. She
turned her four sons into oxen and ploughed out land, which is now Lake
Vänern in Sweden, and transported it to form the island of Zealand, of a
similar shape, which became Copenhagen