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Flowery corner in a dark landscape

Camel safari route limited to a small corner of the Fire Mountain

Jameos del Agua

Gents and Ladies at the Fundación

Colourful wall at the Fundación

Playa Dorada

La Geria

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Lying on a beach in Lanzarote may be perfect for rest and relaxation, and there is sand enough to get between a lot of toes, but the heart and soul of the island lies in its dramatic volcanic landscapes. Sceptics might say the interior looks like nothing more than the blackened cinder yard of a giant boiler house but how wrong can you be. Very soon the landscapes work their own subtle charm taking on unimaginable hues under a moody morning cloud or the sloping rays of the evening sun. To put it quite bluntly, it is inspirational.

There is an energy in this inspiration which drives the indigenous population to achievements which turn Lanzarote into an extraordinary island. The top attraction on the island is one created by nature and now fiercely guarded. ‘On the first day of September, between 9 and 10 in the evening, the earth opened up near Timanfaya and an enormous mountain rose from the bosom of the earth. Flames flew upwards from the top which continued to burn for nineteen days.’ Those words were written in 1730 by the parish priest, Don Andrés Lorenzo Curbelo. The Fire Mountain, Timanfaya, so created, is today a National Park with limited access where human interference, even a footprint, is strongly resisted. Visitors are welcome to the park centre then allowed a tour by park bus around a restricted circuit, enough to show off the dreamlike landscapes of the Valley of Tranquillity or the awe of Raven’s Crater. In parts the geothermal energy is so close to the surface that a bucket of water thrown into a hole returns instantly as a column of steam, tinder sets fire on the ground and a good lunch can be barbecued on the heat arising from a pit.

Tip: If the excitement of volcanoes takes hold, the next best place to visit is the Timanfaya Interpretation Centre located just south of Mancha Blanca. There are plenty of hands-on exhibits and an Eruption Hall where volcanic eruptions are simulated complete with all the sounds, smells and vibrations!

After visiting the Fire Mountain my conversion from a cinder sceptic to an enthusiast of Lanzarote’s remarkable volcanic landscape was well under way. The journey from the Green Lagoon at El Golfo on the west coast through the pretty village of Yaiza with its gardened roads into the wine growing area of La Geria completed this conversion. Farmers have struggled over the centuries to turn this arid sea of clinker into productive land. Ingenuity is their solution. By planting the vines in hollows and surrounding them with half-moon shaped small walls (called zocos) for wind protection, they have not only succeeded in growing grapes but have created artistic patterns enhancing and dignifying the landscape.

In spite of all the barren looking hillsides on the island, the flora is quite rich with anything from drought resistant Euphorbias, often looking like candelabra, to colourful chrysanthemums. Palm trees are very much at home and grow freely in all parts and are often used for shade or decoration.

Very few artists have had the vision or inspiration to take the landscape and use it as their canvas. Internationally known but locally born architect, artist and sculptor, César Manrique, did exactly that. Sadly, he died in a car crash in 1992 at the age of 73 but his influence is everywhere on the island and remains for all to see. Fascinated by the startling contrast of brilliant white against the blackness of the lava fields, it became his trademark used in so many of his creations.

Tip: Watch out for the giant colourful mobiles on roundabouts. All are the creations of César Manrique. His toilet signs too are rather eye catching!

Another of the top attractions on the island, Jameos del Agua, lies in the north. It is a huge cave or grotto, more correctly a lava tube formed as the lava crust solidified while the hot inner lava continued to flow away. The snow-white showpiece pool within filled with blue water is another of the master’s creations. It is reached in an open section only after passing through part of the cave covering a lake inhabited by small albino crabs. The far end of the tube has been converted into a spacious but intimate theatre.

Still in the north is another creation of César Manrique, a cactus garden created from a small quarry. The impact of the design is immediate on entering the garden from the white windmill ahead to the surrounding terraces holding 1,400 cacti. Across the road from the cactus garden, there remain fields of Opuntia cacti previously used for farming the cochineal beetle, still be seen on the cacti. Once one of the island’s traditional industries, it declined with the advance of synthetic red dyes.

Each and every one of César Manrique’s creations is worth a visit including the Casa Museo y Monumento al Campesino, his tribute to the farmers, and the Fundación César Manrique, his own home now run by a private foundation as a museum to the life and works of César Manrique. Apart from the modern art decorating the white walls outside, his house appears traditional. Inside it is a different story. Five larva bubbles, igloo white, connected by snow-white tunnels make up the rooms on two levels. The lounge enjoys stunning views over black larva fields and his trademark white and blue swimming pool is located in part of a collapsed lava tube. Apart from great fun, the architecture is quite brilliant.

At least there are plenty of beaches to relax on between sightseeing trips. Costa Teguise alone has four and there are large beaches at Puerto del Carmen and Playa Blanca but best for windsurfers is Matagorda.

Tip: for the finest natural beaches on the island, sun-worshippers should head for the Papagayo peninsula on the south-eastern corner of the island. This string of sandy coves is reached by bumpy road or by water taxi from Playa Blanca.

Lanzarote could easily have been regarded as the Cinderella of the Canaries but islanders’ energy and creativity have turned it into a gem. It is more than an island for all seasons, it is an island for all people.

Agricola Museum: gents...........and ladies                     Meercat