Portugal's Greatest Lovers
In the footsteps of Portugal's greatest lovers Inés and Pedro

Historical themes lend an extra dimension to holidays and this is one for the romantics. The trail runs through some of Portugal's most beautiful countryside and visits famous monuments making it a journey to remember

'Why are you speaking English' asked the twelve year old girl in well spoken English. With a smile of amusement I answered 'because we are English'. Three yards away the Portuguese guide was busy droning out the history of Mafra Palace to a listless, bored group of Portuguese. Her young faced cleared with understanding as she realised the party was not entirely Portuguese.

'I would like to be English' she announced.

'But you have a beautiful country. Why do you want to be English?'

Ignoring the question, she continued 'everybody should speak English, If all countries in the world spoke English, there would be less trouble.'

This was a girl to be reckoned with. The Palace was suddenly a brighter place and the commentary enlivened by our new friend's comments and surprising knowledge of Portuguese history. Solemnly shaking hands to take her leave, she suddenly added 'I would like to be Inês de Castro'.

'But she was murdered' gasped Eileen. A toss of the young girl's head dismissed any dissent.

The tragic love story of Inês de Castro and King Pedro is written deeply into the psyche of the people. Inspired by the parting comment of our bright young friend, it seemed to us that visiting places associated with the royal lovers would add an extra spice to our journey around the country. This trail was to lead us to Bragança, Coimbra and finally, the monastery at Alcobaça.

Heir to the throne, Pedro married Constanza in 1340. The event would have slipped into oblivion had Constanza's Spanish cousin, Inês de Castro, not been invited to attend the queen. For Pedro, it was love at first sight. The chemistry between them was so fluorescent everybody knew and Inês was instantly banished back to Spain. Just five years later, there was another twist of fate, Constanza died. Pedro instantly recalled Inês but his father, Dom Afonso IV, banned marriage between them mainly in fear of Inês' ambitious Spanish family. Pedro whisked Inês off to Bragança where they are said to have secretly married in 1354. Bragança was our first port of call.

With our minds rooted in the past, we could only think of Bragança as a far-flung outpost where the lovers believed they could marry in total secrecy. In spite of the towns geographical isolation is has always had a leading role on the stage of history. We knew our stay was to be brimming with romance the moment we found our accommodation, a charming converted water mill and bakery in the heart of the country just outside town. This self-catering accommodation was advertised with breakfast which turned up in a basket on the doorstep the evening before.

Bragança became a town by royal franchise in 1187. A sturdy castle followed, one which would have witnessed the passion of Inês and Pedro. The now mellow walls of a much modified castle still dominate the old town, which stands apart from the new. On cobbled streets inside the citadela, chickens scuttled away from under the feet of boisterous children while grannies sat in the shade busily crocheting. I looked about half expecting to see a camera crew but this was no stage set. Wandering around brought us to the Torre de Princesa and more royal romance and intrigue.

Eileen's eyes took on that misty look again. 'Its history is full of forbidden love and infidelities'. She obviously had more to relate and I was keen to get to the military museum in the main tower. 'A Moorish princess was imprisoned here for loving a Christian and Dona Sancha, sister of the first king of Portugal, took refuge to grieve over the infidelities of her husband'. Much to Eileen's dismay, the tower was closed to visitors. 'Legend it may be' she continued, 'but the last tale really is history. Dom Jaime, the fourth Duke of Bragança, behaving like a typically jealous husband, imprisoned his wife here, the Spanish Dona Leonor, suspecting her of infidelity. Later, in Vila Viçosa, the duke murdered both Dona Leonor and her supposed lover'.

We found the church, Igreja S. Vicente, where the royal wedding of Inês and Pedro is believed to have taken place. No fairy tale princess, no Charles and Di spectacular, just a quiet ceremony amongst witnesses sworn to secrecy. It was not the simple, austere church which fitted my dream. There was an overpowering gilded Baroque altarpiece, a later addition no doubt like the huge nightmarish figure of Christ in the act of ascending through the ceiling.

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News did spread back leading to events which make this story so poignant.

Quinta das Lagrimas. This might have been the very spot where Inés came face to face with her murderers

Alcobaça Abbey where Pedro instructed that their tombs were to be placed foot to foot so that when they arose on the day of judgment, the first thing that they would see would be each other

The tomb of Pedro. Worryingly there is a dog lying at his feet which might just impede his headlong rush into the arms of his lover.

Not too far from Alcobaça lies Battle Abbey. A wonderful piece of architecture full of English verticals. It is here where the tomb of Henry the Navigator lies. Henry was the son of King John and Phillipa of Lancaster, daughter of John of Gaunt.

Returning to Coimbra, rumors of Inês and Pedro's secret marriage spread on the internet of the day, word of mouth. The king was mightily displeased, as were his noblemen. Despite the king withdrawing his approval, a plot hatched by three noblemen to murder Inês went ahead. Pedro was inconsolable and threatened revolt but was seemingly calmed. In another timely twist, his father died and Pedro ascended the throne. Still smouldering with anger, he instantly set out on a course of revenge. Two of the noblemen were tracked down and executed but the third evaded him. The body of Inês was removed from her tomb, sat on a throne by his side and crowned as queen while his courtiers were obliged to pay their respects by kissing her decomposed hand.

On reaching Coimbra, we headed straight for Quinta das Lágrimas (House of Tears) which is where Inês lived with Pedro and was murdered. Now it is a comfortable 4 star hotel. Eileen was itching to cross the river to find the church of Santa Clara (now Santa Clara-a-Velha) where Inês was originally entombed. The old convent suffers from flooding by the Mondego river and efforts are in hand to protect and restore the old monastery.

It is easy to linger in the old university town but Alcobaça awaited and Eileen was impatient. Pedro had Inês entombed in Alcobaça where he was later to join her. He instructed that their tombs be placed foot to foot so that when they arose on the day of judgment, the first thing that they would see would be each other.

If the overbearing Baroque façade of the Royal Abbey of Alcobaça lacked appeal, the Gothic interior was breathtaking in it simplicity and elegance. The kitchen with its huge chimney rising over equally large ovens and its running stream to keep the fish fresh could wait until later. Likewise the King's Room with statues of Portuguese kings up to Dom José I. A direct line was made to the transepts where the finely carved and delightfully ornate tombs of Inês and Pedro are placed feet to feet. A fitting resting place for these two lovers. Just one worry clouded my mind, the dog. As was customary with noblemen, a carved dog lies at the feet of Pedro. After waiting for so long, it would not please Inês if Pedro fell over the dog in his haste to fly into her arms.