As a strategic island in the central Mediterranean, Malta has experienced the ebb and flow of countless peoples down the ages who have left rather more than footprints. They have left some of the most intriguing historical artefacts to be found anywhere in the world.
Sun-blessed Malta is actually the largest of the six Maltese islands which have served as a stepping stone across the Mediterranean, from Sicily in Europe to African Tunisia/Libya, and has provided a safe harbour for shipping since time immemorial. Nowhere is this diversity more apparent than in the Maltese language (Malti) which is a mix of North African Arabic, Romance and some English words but nearly everyone speaks English. Perhaps as well, as the language isn’t the easiest to learn or pronounce. Of the other two inhabited islands, Gozo is the larger and a great escape into a more rural and peaceful landscape. This island is home to Calypso’s cave where, in Homer’s Odyssey, Odysseus is purported to have been held captive by Calypso for seven years. It’s hard to imagine being held captive for so long in such an uninspiring cave. Those in search of an even greater escape could head to Comino where there is a hotel but little else except beaches. For years Comino was used as a pirates lair, later a prisoner of war camp by Nelson and then for an isolation hospital during the Crimea campaign.
Within this small
cluster of islands under the Maltese Islands flag lies a diversity of natural
and cultural offerings. Historians have been pushed beyond their limits of
knowledge explaining the subterranean Hypogeum which may have been a
pre-historic necropolis and the megalithic temple complexes on both Malta and
Gozo which pre-date Stonehenge and the Egyptian Pyramids. These temples display
apses, similar to those found in later Christian churches, and beg the question
as to their ritualistic purpose. Stone ruts resembling cart tracks, the largest
patch known as Clapham Junction, sets the imagination into overdrive as to their
real purpose but such mysteries present themselves around every corner on Malta.
St John's Co-Cathedral, Valletta left
After the Knights of St John moved their base from
Rhodes to Malta in the sixteenth century, Roman Catholicism dominated, a
testament to this being the number of churches and priests. Malta is only second
to the Vatican in the number of priests it has within its archipelago! Nowadays,
the largest invasion is of the tourist variety. Nowhere, in such a small area,
is there such a wide choice of options. The islands can be a welcome haven for
those in search of nothing more than a relaxing break, perhaps to lie on a beach
or sample the excellent spa hotels. Culture is around every corner, Valletta
alone is jammed with much to see. Local buses fan out from Valletta and trips
around the island are easily accomplished in such a compact area. A modern car
ferry plies regularly between Malta and Gozo so even a day visit is possible.
Rabat and Mdina on Malta, Victoria on Gozo but referred to locally as Rabat, are
great places to visit,
the warren of streets in Malta’s Mdina and the Citadel within Victoria a
constant fascination, not to mention the views! Not to be overlooked are
activities such as scuba diving and countryside walks for natural history buffs.
Walking books are available for the island and there are walking booklets
provided by the tourist office, also information on the flora and fauna.
Mdina interesting narrow streets left and overview right
We were there in winter, for a brief visit at the end of January, and arrived in sunshine. Emerging into warmth and brighter light really upped the feel good factor. Nothing is too far away on Malta so we were soon at our destination in Sliema, the Fortina Spa Hotel, close to Malta’s hub, a short ferry ride across the harbour to Valletta. The pampering in this hotel has to be experienced to be believed. A veritable rabbit warren of rooms constitute the spa area but there is little need to venture out of your room. All kinds of health and beautifying gadgetry positively vie for attention in the bathrooms of some of the more luxurious bedrooms, which negates the necessity to venture far. Choices, choices, choices! It’s all very cosy with a sauna for two and high pressure massage shower; a therapeutic bath providing up to seven different programmes on a finger touch key pad and a Dermalife Machine for body detoxification. The latter looked like something from space but I had a go. Talk about an out of body experience - except for my head I was completely encapsulated and feeling vulnerable. This was compounded by a feeling of being held captive whilst peculiar aspirated hisses and grinding noises heralded streams of steam onto my body. As if all this wasn’t enough, a spa for two, again complete with different programmes allowed for a complete relaxing wallow, champagne glass in hand. All these in room treatments came with the requisite oils and seaweed and mud treatments. Those with energy left to venture into the spa could opt for even more rigorous treatments in the Ayurveda Centre, such as a Chaviitti Thirummu - a kind of martial arts massage. For this, the masseur hangs from a rope and massages an oiled back with his feet to correct the body alignments much as an osteopath or chiropractor does. If you are really into spa treatments and have the inclination and a bottomless purse you could spend a whole holiday sampling the array of treatments on offer.
Not to be missed is the harbour cruise. By far the best
vantage point for seeing and photographing the amazing convolution of harbours
surrounding
Valletta. Valletta is easily reached by a short, regular ferry across the
harbour from Sliema. Besides many grand churches and buildings, it is worth
spending time viewing The Malta Experience, an excellent film which puts Malta’s
history into perspective. If you’re feeling peckish, local bread is delicious
and the very moreish and fresh local pastries or 'Cornish pasties’ with fillings
such as chicken will satisfy. The pea patties, of which the plain pastry variety
is better than the flaky pastry, are also very popular and don’t stay on the
shelf for long. For a dining experience, try Rabbit, the national dish and one
to sample at least once during a stay. Commercial wine growing is being
developed and a local wine worth drinking is the Marsovin brand, both white and
red. It is also possible to enjoy some home-made wine from the jug but that is
more hit and miss.
Tarxien Temples, Malta right
It’s easy to venture around this small island by one of
many buses which constantly leave from the main bus station at the entrance to
Valletta. Modern buses now operate alongside the old Leyland buses, synonymous
with Malta, and a must for at least one journey.
Mgarr harbour, Gozo left
Our ferry ride over to Gozo took place in a Force 8 gale, but we were barely aware of the turbulence outside until we ventured, very briefly, on deck. We were whisked off around the island and visited the temple complex at Xaghra, Calypo’s Cave and the Azure window before a lunch at a traditional restaurant, 'Rikardo’ in the walled Citadel, where we sampled local cheeses and home-made wine. We had to miss out lace making to make time to visit the Ta’ Pinu Cathedral, located in the middle of the countryside and a popular place of pilgrimage but one to miss if you’re not into churches. Our overnight stay was in the Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort & Spa, a world away from the bustling Fortina in Sliema, set in a peaceful rural backwater. The spa was again a warren of treatment rooms but there was minimal gadgetry in the generous sized rooms and bathrooms. A very comfortable place to stay for a quieter retreat.
This was our first visit but Malta ticked so many boxes, we started to appreciate why so many people return year after year.
Brian & Eileen Anderson would like to thank Air Malta, the Maltese Tourism Authority , the Fortina Spa Hotel and the Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort & Spa for their valuable support on this visit