The Capital of Ancient Wessex
Welcome to
Winchester.
This is King Alfred the Great’s city, England’s ancient capital, regarded as
the Westminster of Anglo-Saxon England. A city which oozes
history from every pore. Claims to fame are around every corner from the
legendary Arthurian Round Table, to its being the birthplace of cricket -
well almost - and also the final resting place of Jane Austen. A stay here
will more than absorb a day or two and the surrounding beautiful countryside,
which can be explored along a maze of delightful country lanes, a few days
more. A great place for a short break with
Portsmouth, Southampton
(the airport is only 15min away), the Isle of Wight and the New Forest all
within easy reach. Even if history isn’t necessarily your thing, there are
attractions galore to entertain families and visitors who appreciate a
pleasant place to be.
Winchester
cathedral, left and right
Start at the Guildhall and Tourist Information, near the Cathedral. Pick up a map and an inexpensive 'walk-round' guide to Winchester. Others guides include ‘The Winchester Walk' free leaflet which follows the footsteps of King Alfred or for a superb overview of the city, follow ‘The Sunset Walk’. There’s even a ‘Tudor Trail’, the poet ‘Keat’s Walk’ and a special trail for wheelchair users. Following these will tell you where to go and what to see and, on the way, allow further opportunities for exploration. There are many intriguing alleyways and narrow streets and, of course, interesting specialist shopping and enticing hostelries when refreshment calls. Budding Civil War soldiers might enjoy ‘The Cheriton Battlefield Walk’, which took place near Alresford, along with visits to the many magnificent military museums in the city. In fact there is so much to see and do, it might pay to check out Winchester's own site in advance to plan your visit. If vintage buses are your scene, ‘Friends of King Alfred Buses’ (FoKAB) run a free vintage bus service on New Year’s Day and provide free bus services for local events. Reputedly the largest and best in the country, a ‘Farmers’ Market’ is held every second and last Sunday in the month whilst the city market is held weekly from Wednesday to Saturday. Two other attractions not so far away are Marwell Zoo and Alresford
The Cathedral of St Swithun. (Founded 642)
St Swithun was in residence as Bishop of Winchester, on the same site, long before the present edifice saw light of day. Winchester was the regal and ecclesiastical centre of King Alfred’s kingdom of Wessex and St Swithun was reputed to have been tutor to King Alfred himself. The legend of St Swithun originated here. His dying wish in 862 was for his remains to be left undisturbed in a simple tomb in the grounds of the cathedral, but, they were moved into a shrine in the inner sanctum. His assumed displeasure resulted in 40 days of rain which cemented the legend that if it rained on the saint’s day (15th July) a further 39 days of rain would follow. A new Cathedral, built with stone from the Isle of Wight by order of William the Conqueror, had its nave remodelled in the lofty English Perpendicular style during the 14th century and is still the longest nave in England. Many treasures within the Cathedral chart its history including the 12th century Winchester Bible which took around 20 years to produce. The unpopular marriage of Mary Tudor and King Philip II of Spain was also conducted here away from London. Their wedding feast was held in nearby, now ruined, Wolvesey Castle. The castle was once one of the greatest medieval buildings in England and palace of the bishops of Winchester.
The Westgate.
During the time of the Romans, the city walls had four gates each named for the four points of the compass. Now only the Westgate, rebuilt round 600 years ago, and the later Kingsgate survive. Kingsgate, a 12th century addition, was built to ease access to the great priory of St Swithun. The free museum above is the fascination now where graffiti covered walls tell the story of its 150 years as a debtors prison. More to see than graffiti though and rooftop city views.
The Castle. Castle Great Hall, left and Round Table below
Considered to be
the finest medieval hall in England after Westminster, The Great Hall is all
that remains of Winchester Castle, once the hub of court and government. A
magnate for visitors is the legendary Arthurian Round Table, which hangs in
splendour on the wall. Although the seated figure is supposedly King Arthur
with his 24 named knights in attendance, the face is said to be that of
Henry VIII for whom the table is believed to have been painted for a visit
in 1522. Many legends bind Winchester, Camelot and King Arthur. Don’t forget
to step outside the south door into Queen Eleanor’s garden, a recreation of
a medieval herbarium. Actually named for two Queens, Eleanor of Provence the
wife of Henry III and her daughter-in-law Eleanor of Castile (she of the
Eleanor Crosses) wife of Edward I.
Winchester College. Winchester College right, chapel roof below
The college has
been a seat of learning since its founding in 1382 by William of Wykeham
(Bishop of Winchester) and is believed to be the oldest continuously running
school in the country. The 70 scholars educated each year for centuries has
swollen to 700 in recent times and many prominent political figures were
educated here.
This splendid building deserves more than a second glance. Much remains of its medieval origins with later additions as the need for expansion occurred. The 14th century gothic Chapel has one of the earliest examples of a wooden vaulted roof and College Hall, the original scholar’s dining room, the medieval cloister and the 17th century red brick schoolroom attributed to Sir Christopher Wren make a tour here worthwhile.
Entrance is by guided tour only (1 hour) on a daily basis but can be subject to change should official functions be taking place. Check in advance via the tourist office or tel: (01962) 621209. A recent venture, Winchester College Enterprises, has opened the college for conferences, meetings, wedding receptions and major musical performances etc.
City Mill and Shop.
Now a National
Trust property, the existing mill, spanning the River Itchen and rebuilt in
1744 on an earlier medieval site, was restored to a working mill in 2004.
Watch a milling demonstration then buy the Stoneground flour. Besides the
basics, there is an impressive mill race, island garden and plenty of
activities for children during the school holidays. Bridges probably linked
with an early settlement at this point long before the one built by St
Swithun. The present bridge, constructed in 1813, is a relative newcomer by
comparison.
The Hospital of St Cross.
A walk south across the water meadows leads to the Hospital of St Cross, England’s oldest almshouse. Another medieval must see dating from 1132, where visitors still receive the Wayfarer’s Dole, a small Street scene beaker of beer and a morsel of bread.
This is just a taster of the main attractions to enjoy but there is much more to see and do than can be entered onto the pages here. More than enough to fill a few visits to the area! Talking of tasters, look out for locally made yummy chocolates, made by Lancashire Lass Debbie and an excellent dry white Fumé wine, product of Wickham Vineyards
Accommodation.
Some suggestions to check out:-
The Wessex Hotel. Hotel du Vin. The Winchester Hotel. Marwell Hotel. Lainston House Hotel.
Short Breaks.
A range of special short break packages, on a variety of themes, is offered by the Tourist Information Centre.