Selva Pass
Selva sunset
Returning to Selva
Eritichium nanum
Gentiana clusii
Martagon lily
Primula minima
Selva, heart of the Dolomites
Snow capped towering peaks have inspired and challenged climbers, walkers, artists and photographers since eternity but the Dolomites in particular are very special to one particular group of enthusiasts. When the winter snows melt away, the flush of spring flowers turn these mountains into one of the great flower gardens of the world. For centuries now, lovers of alpine flowers have made a summer forage to the Dolomites. In the early days, it was intrepid plant hunters, like Reginald Farrer, who scoured the mountains intent on bringing back plants and seeds to introduce into cultivation. His adulation raised one particular plant to star status, the alpine forget-me-not, Eritrichium nanum, a compact cushion smothered in tiny blue flowers. He christened it King of the Alps and this name still stirs the heart of alpine flower lovers everywhere. Just to add to the mystic of this beautiful flower, it has proved intractable in cultivation.
There is no let up in the flow of alpine enthusiasts to the Dolomites, obviously not to collect these days but to hunt out the various species, admire and photograph. They come individually and collectively with one ambition in mind, to find the King of the Alps.
Of the very many good locations in the Dolomites, we prefer Selva in the upper reaches of Val Gardena. Farrers description of the Dolomites a magical garden enclosed by peaks like frozen flames could easily apply to Selva. Surrounding this high alpine village are the peaks of Stevia, Cir, the Gruppo Sella and the Sassolungo. Getting into the mountains could not be easier, especially from the last week of June onwards when a selection of gondolas, cable cars and chair lifts open for the summer season. With a Gardena travel card in your hand, all the transport in the valley from buses to cable cars is at your command for a whole week. Selva is also known as Selva Wolkenstein. History has bequeathed two names to all the places and all the mountains around here, one Italian and one German.
Our group of eager flower lovers arrive first week in July and our task is to lead them through flowery meadows, across alpine screes and to vertical rock faces to find as many alpine flowers as possible. Having explored this area for a number of years, we have located many of the alpine specialities that our groups are keen to see but we are not prepared to admit to anything. Their sense of personal discovery has to be real.
Squeezed between towering cliffs is the huge glacial valley of Vallunga which leads north west out of Selva. Walking into this scenic valley is a great introduction to the Dolomites without being at all physically demanding and the reward in flowers is disproportionate. From tall orange lilies, Lilium bulbifera, down to diminutive alpines, distractions are on hand just about every step of the way. Flower photographers revel in the variety of flowers, the campanulas, primulas, violas and, of course, the orchids. This valley is great, when time is running out, simply turn around and walk back. There is no boredom factor here. The two sides of the valley support different flowers so the return route offers just as many surprises and discoveries.
Selva itself, located at 1500m, is high enough to cause breathing problems for the unacclimatised. It pays not to rush around in the early days or attempt steep climbs. The simple solution is to ride up and walk down for a day or two. Around Selva, there is plenty of choice but one of our favoured walks for the early days makes use of two very well marked routes. Some of the walks have been renumbered recently so it pays to be armed with the latest up to date map. Fortunately, these are available from any of the tourist offices in the valley, at Selva, S. Cristina or Ortisči.
Riding on the bus around the hairpin bends up to the Sella Pass is a breathtaking start to any day. Heading south from there it is easy enough to pick up the Friedrich August way and contour around to the first hut of the same name. Always popular with our groups, these alpine huts make great pit stops. They serve anything from cakes and coffee to cold beer and cooked meals. This hut is our turning point, we only made it this far to find Primula minima, but the search is on now for King of the Alps. Returning to Sella Pass, our route follows 526/528 as far as the gondola station for a descent back to Selva.
With the group more acclimatised, we can range around the valley now using our Gardena travel cards to the full. The cable car ride from Ortesči to Secede opens up spectacular scenery. Overpowering mountains provide the most perfect backdrop for the beautiful yellow Pulsatilla alpina. Globe flowers, crocus and soldenellas grace the footpath on the steady descent to Col Raiser for the gondola down to S. Cristina. In spite of all the searching, the little blue treasure for which we have all been looking has not yet turned up. Rather naughtily, seeds of doubt about its eventuall discovery have been sown.
The day eventually dawns when we decide to walk the Bindleweg from Passo Pordoi. Before starting out, it is impossible not to be drawn to a trip up on the cable car which ascends to an altitude of 2950m. If the snow cover has started to clear, there are some unexpected alpines to be found but not King of the Alps. That still awaits as we set foot along the Bindleweg overlooking the glacial Marmolada mountain range. Many enjoy this popular walk along a corniche path on a steep hillside and yet few actually see Eritrchium nanum. In this location it dwells on the rocks. It does not need to do so but where the vegetation is too competitive it seeks a solitary refuge. Once the group are urged not to ignore the giant boulders emerging from the hillside, its discovery is inevitable and the whoops of delight which follow bring yet more brightness to this incredibly beautiful part of the world.
Lilium bulbifera
Campanula cochlearifolia
Clematis alpina
Devil's claw
Nigratella nigra
Traunsteinera globosa
Gentiana verna