 Return to contents of the Travel Magazine A city of many moods, which never ceases to attract and inspire, and where diverse cultures merge and mingle. One of my favourite cities which, despite its frenetic bustle, still retains an aura of the mysterious east beneath a very cosmopolitan cloak. Apparent from the moment I arrived was how clean everywhere appeared from previous visits. Gone was the all pervading blanket of winter smog, thanks to a recent clean air initiative, and there was altogether a more sparkly, upbeat atmosphere. Not that Istanbul was ever dull, but it has been released from a closeted much older persona. Now, smart trams and funiculars run regularly during the day easily connecting the heart of the old city, Sultanahmet, and over the river to Taksim Square in the Beyoglu district, the vibrant and bustling heart of the new. Our accommodation, in what had been an original Ottoman mansion,
The tempting allure of The Grand Bazaar is a must, even if you aren’t a
shopoholic. This palace to chock-a-block consumerism fairly buzzes but be
prepared to get lost amongst the myriad alleyways. Hard sell seems to be a
thing of the past, or at least it was when we were there, and a very
pleasant stallholder asked ‘May I hassle you?’ If it’s books you’re after,
a smaller Book Bazaar lies next door but it caters mainly for students
from the nearby university. A couple of good bookshops, which sell
guidebooks and books in English, lie further back along Divanyolu Caddesi,
not far from the famous Pudding Shop near Tourist Information. Puddings
are a speciality in Turkey and this shop is a well known rendezvous for
pudding lovers. All of life seems to be centred along the
Crossing the bridge also leads to the start of the funicular, which
rises in stages to the metro for Taksim Square and the modern shopping
area. Here is the heart of the everyday working city where the swirl of
city life never seems to cease. This is a particularly vibrant place in
the evening, especially along Istiklal Caddesi where pedestrians dice with
trundling trams and gaze into tempting shop windows along the way. In this
area are many authentic restaurants and lokantas serving delicious Turkish
food at prices enjoyed by the locals. You may notice
Not to be forgotten are the waterways. Istanbul lies where the Golden
Horn and Bosphorus meet the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus itself then
flows northwards to meet the Black Sea so there are plenty of
opportunities to take a boat trip and give weary legs a rest. Another point to bear in mind when booking your trip is to be aware that two airports serve Istanbul. Ataturk Airport (www.ataturkairport.com), used by the major airlines, lies about 12km from the city centre on the European side of the city and is the most convenient airport for most tourists. Taxis and buses, half-hourly from early morning to late evening, are available but the metro (train), which leaves opposite international arrivals across the main road, is the fastest and most convenient route directly to Sultanahmet. Buy jetons for the fare before boarding the metro. The other newer airport, Sabiha Gokcen (www.sgairport.com) is 25km from the city centre and lies in the less easily accessible, for tourists, Asiatic side. This is the airport used by no-frills airlines so, if convenience to the main tourist area is important to you, check out the destination airport before booking your flight. The cost of a taxi from Sabiha Gokcen is fairly steep, around £40 in 2007 and although it is under an hour to Sultanahmet it can be much, much longer during rush hour. Alternatives are to go into the centre on the Asian side then taxi or bus over to the European side or catch the regular bus service (Havas) from the airport to Taksim Square, which costs a few pounds. It is easy to connect with Sultanahmet from Taksim. A rail option is to taxi the 3 miles to Pendik railway station for trains to Istanbul which go to the main Asiatic side station Haydarpasa Station, but check their frequency beforehand or at the airport on arrival. A regular ferry plies between Haydarpasa, leaving in front of the station, to Karakoy on the Taksim side of the city. The ferry docks near Galata Bridge close to the funicular up to Taksim and the tramline to Sultanahmet. Return to contents of the Travel Magazine
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was
tucked along a traffic free street within touching distance of many of the
sights for cultural indulgence where history oozes from every stone. It
wasn’t so much an Arabian Nights rosy fingered dawn which added to the
atmosphere though, it was more the proximity of the muezzin’s call to
prayer. The mansion style hotel evoked a bygone era and was very
comfortable but if shopping is the main aim for a visit, choose somewhere
close to Taksim Square in the modern quarter. Whatever your choice, there
is never enough time in one visit except to enjoy an initial overview then
return again and again and again....! Istanbul is a city both Brian and I
never tire of visiting and we’re really countryside people - must be
something in the water! Be aware though that it can be searingly hot
during the summer months and bitingly cold in winter, especially if the
wind blows from the north or east.
Topkapi Palace, once the home of the Ottoman sultans and their harem,
is a definite must. More by luck than good management, we were there on a
Wednesday at 11am when we were drawn by the throbbing sound of drum beats
filling the air. The sight and sound of a military band dressed in
colourful Ottoman costume transported us back in time to that era,
especially when on the move as they marched out of the palace grounds. A
not to be missed experience which occurs weekly! I had trouble dragging
Brian away from the two shoulder high, solid gold candlesticks in the
treasury. It’s difficult to decide whether it’s the fact they both weigh
in at more than 100 kilos the pair or their aesthetic value but I
constantly remind him that he’d have difficulty getting them in the
rucksack! Take our tip and go early to Topkapi before the hoards descend!
Next on the list was Haghia Sophia, close by, originally a Christian
church but converted into a mosque in the 15th century, which must have
been breathtakingly magnificent during its heyday. It still dominates the
landscape along with the later Blue Mosque opposite, one of the foremost
religious buildings in the world, and separated from Haghia Sophia by
pleasant gardens. The Roman Hippodrome and 4th century Cistern of 1,001
columns, the second largest in Istanbul, are close by as is the Museum of
Turkish and Islamic Art but the latter requires a good half day to do it
justice. 
narrow streets
packed with small shops and street markets on the descent towards the
Golden Horn. This area below the Grand Bazaar is where the middle classes
come to buy the same goods found in the newer upmarket establishments but
at much lower prices, so we were informed. The mingling aroma of eastern
spices alerts the senses to the Spice Bazaar, yet another distraction
where you end up spending far more than intended.
A little further downhill from the bazaar lies the meeting point of the
Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, a whirl of activity by day as a ferry
departure point and focus of an entertaining street life by night. Nearby
lie the railway station, once the terminus for the Orient Express, and the
intriguing Galata Bridge across which the 14th century, conical capped
Galata Tower dominates a landscape of tiered rooftops. 
many locals drinking
what appears to be a large glass of milk. This is the yoghurt drink, ayran,
which is either freshly made in house or comes in cartons and is
especially refreshing in hot weather. In fact, if you choose a
non-alcoholic place to eat this drink goes very well with Turkish mezes.
As far as food is concerned, the choice of dishes is vast, Turkish mezes
are mainly vegetable/salad dishes along with some egg, fish and meat
dishes. These are placed in the middle of the table and shared, an
enjoyable and sociable experience, but individual dishes can also be
ordered. Soups of all kinds
Old
mansions, palaces, castles and grand hotels lie along the banks of the Bosphorus and the Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara make for an
interesting sail but that’s if you can tear yourself away from the city
bustle. Ferries also ply regularly along the Golden Horn and across the
Bosphorus between east and west. The hospital where Florence Nightingale
nursed the Crimean War wounded lies just across the water on the eastern
bank but prior permission is needed for those wishing to visit, ask at
Tourist Information.