Aquilegia jonesii; King of the Rockies, worth any amount of effort to find it!

Beartooth Pass in July: it was as cold as it looks.

Hymenoxys grandiflora, huge flowers on a small plant. Obligingly, the flowers all face the sun

Hymenoxys grandiflora, old-man-of -the-mountains is one of several local names. The latin name has changed to Tetraneuris grandiflora

The very beautiful orchid Calypso bulbosa.

Shooting stars, Dodecatheon pungens.

Jenny Lake, in the Grand Teton National Park Teton.

Colourful Indian paintbrushes which as always so difficult to name specifically.

Yellowstone Park with its varied and sometimes dramatic scenery

Old Faithfull which gushes which regularity you can be on hand ready with camera!

Not all clovers as as fascinating as this Trifolium nanum forming a tidy wreath.

Primula angustifolia

Erythronium grandiflora, glacier lily

Clark's nutcracker, a commonly seen bird

More Indian paintbrushes, this time yellow

Brian & Eileen spent their holidays chasing around the American Rockies on a journey that took them from Denver to Yellowstone Park and beyond just to see an alpine in its natural habitat.

Hopes, dreams, ambitions can be born in the space of a single heartbeat. So it was with Aquilegia jonesii. Easily recognised as a columbine, the normal sized blue flowers emerged from tight blue-green foliage growing barely as high as a match box. One look at a picture of the plant set in its alpine tundra home was enough to sew the seeds of desire. Realising it would never survive in the same compact form away from its natural habitat, left only one option which sent us careering around the North American Rockies in search of this most perfect of alpines.

The Interstate 70 leads west out of Denver directly into the Rocky Mountains. I was desperately anxious to charge into the mountains without delay searching for flowers but we heeded local advice to stay in town for a period of altitude acclimatisation. Denver has not won the epithet of Mile High City without reason. Filling three days was no great problem, especially with Denver Botanic Gardens on hand and the new Hudson Gardens to visit.

Apart from a very fine rock garden full of North American alpines, Denver Botanic Gardens has an excellent book shop. Browsing there, we unearthed valuable clues which were to shape up the rest of our journey. Aquilegia jonesii is a plant of limestone screes which is found in the Yellowstone area and in the Big Horn Mountains.

With all the pieces of the jigsaw in place, we set out westwards along the I 70. Oddly enough, the Rockies hardly look majestic until the top of the first major ridge. Suddenly, there is an incredible view of the Front Range framed by the bridge at exit 254. Beyond here is a stopping place to catch sight of a herd of buffalo often seen grazing on the right.

Almost before we had time to enjoy the sight of ponderosa pine, logpole pine and Douglas fir on the unfolding foothills we reached Idaho Springs, the turning point for the summit of Mount Evans and our first excursion into the alpine tundra of the North American Rockies.

Highway 103 winds all the way to the summit at a dizzy height of 12,284 ft (3744m). The upper part of Mount Evans road starts at Echo lake and the barrier is usually open by the end of June, snow permitting. We stopped first at Echo lake and were quickly finding flowers including the pinnate-leaved daisy, Erigeron pinnatisectus, a Rocky Mountains endemic, and cushions of alpine Phlox, Phlox condensata.

In spite of clear blue skies and bright sunshine, chilling winds at the summit made our stay far from comfortable but the Persian carpet of tiny alpines decking the seemingly barren alpine tundra was heart-warming. A fisheye view on the world with the sight of snow cap peaks disappearing into a far horizon engaged us for a time but attention soon returned to ground level My eye alighted almost instantly upon the tiny blue forget-me-not, Eritrichiun nanum. Dubbed ‘King of the Alps’ by Reginald Farrer, the discovery of this species in the European Alps drives flower lovers into paroxysms of excitement annually and is one of the great prizes of any holiday. Here it covered the ground in vast areas in colours ranging from pale to deep blue. We hardly dared to tread on this fragile alpine tundra where damage from a single step could take a century to repair. Anyway, moving slowly is essential at this oxygen-depleted altitude but the variety of flowers in any small area made it hardly necessary to move at all.

Burning out the brakes is serious risk while driving down the mountain so the descent took time but it gave us chance to spot one or two interesting plants, like Penstemon whippleanus, on the way. By the time we reached the I70 again to continue westward the day was largely spent leaving no time for our next intended destination, Loveland Pass. We drove on only as far as historic Georgetown, once a thriving mining town rich on silver, and found a Super 8 Motel for the night.

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A large herd of Bighorn sheep inhabit the area around Georgetown but failed to make an appearance whilst we were setting off westward again on the I70. It was no great disappointment since some had crossed the road in front of us on our descent of Mount Evans. Exit 216, only 12 miles (19km) further along, leads over Loveland Pass before rejoining at Dillon.

At 11,992 ft (3654m), Loveland Pass attracts many travellers simply to ponder on the fate of a rain drop. This is the great Continental Divide and a drop of rain falling here may flow west to the Pacific or east to the Atlantic. A step over west leads out of the Front Range into the Western Slopes of the Rockies.

We started our botanising at a glacial tarn just below the Continental Divide where we found the lovely, yellow Trollius laxiflorus in some abundance. Pathways both north and south from the Continental Divide gave us the opportunity to search out more alpine treasures. Conditions were ideal. There was an achingly blue sky above and virtually no wind so we were inclined to linger. It was a paradise of alpines and the first to catch our eye, indeed the easiest to spot, was the old-man-of-the-mountain, Hymenoxys grandiflora. This huge shaggy-haired plant grows only a few inches tall yet has enormous golden daisy flowers which always face east. Eritrichium nanum was again prolific and there were some fine specimens of Primula angustifolium, an alpine with a distribution restricted to the southern Rockies. Another primula turned up too, Primula parryi, just emerging into flower. Clovers rarely cause too much excitement but the endemic Trifolium nanum found here formed attractive tight cushions covered with dark dusky purple flowers.

Conscious of the fact that we were barely two hours drive away from Denver, we felt the pressure to move on and start heading north. The target destination for the day was Steamboat Springs and the road from Dillon would take us there directly. There was just the matter of Ute Pass, a short diversion off the Dillon-Steamboat Springs road.

It was a short stop too since time was pressing. At this slightly lower altitude (9,524ft/2820m), there were plenty of flowers that we had not seen before. The choicest of these, found in the light woodland, was the delightful slipper orchid, Calypso bulbosa, seen at its best.

Rabbit Ears Pass

In contented mood, we motored in silence along quiet roads. There always seem to be Penstemons in various shades of blue around every corner in this part of the country but we were intent on saving time for one more stop en route, at the evocatively named Rabbit Ears Pass. This pause was specifically to find the glacier lily, Erythronium grandiflorum. The first couple of forays from the roadside failed to find it but the final stop did and there were plenty to see in full bloom.

It was time now for some steady motoring as we made our way north through Wyoming to the first search area for Aquilegia jonesii, Yellowstone Park. If we needed entertainment along the journey, the Prairie Dog (Cynomys ludovicianus) provided it. They would sit upright at the side of the road and dash across at the very last moment, playing their own game of chicken. Judging by the number of flat-packs on the road, more than a few showed a fatal lack of judgement.

At a refreshment stop along the way, people heading south out of the park warned of heavy snowfalls two days previously and this was the first week in July.

Blue skies followed us and there were no signs of snow as we entered the park from the southern end which leads first through Grand Teton National Park. The Teton range lies to the west and the snowy peak of Grand Teton, rising to a mighty 13,770ft (4,197m), forms a perfect backdrop to Jenny’s Lake. There was no great rush now since we had booked ahead to secure three nights accommodation in a log cabin in Canyon Village at the centre of Yellowstone Park.

Small herds of buffalo are a common sight wandering through the park and we stopped several times for a closer view. We had a very close encounter leaving the cabin on the first evening. I locked the door and turned to find myself staring into the face of a buffalo at touching distance. It fixed its yellow eyes on me in an eyeball to eyeball confrontation. At such close quarters, I was rendered speechless by the size and muscle power of the beast. Timeless milliseconds later, showing no inclination to turn me into tomorrow’s headlines, it lowered its head and continued grazing the cabin’s lawn. I sagged with relief. Eileen, busy gazing in entirely the other direction, was blissfully unaware of this close encountered and remained so until my speech returned.

We reverted easily into our tourist mode while in the park, determined to see as much wild life as possible and enjoy all the natural wonders. Mingling with other visitors, we toured the geyser country and stood in the crowds to watch Old Faithful erupt with mighty force, which is does to a regular and frequent timetable, and marvelled over hot, bubbling, sulphurous pools. When not distracted by passing elk, we enjoyed the view of the park’s Grand Canyon but always kept an eye on the flowers.

With so much of interest in the park, the flowers are not often mentioned but we made exciting finds almost hourly and sometimes in the most unexpected places. Amongst pine close to a popular picnic area we found a fine stand of a coral root orchid, Corallorhiza mertensiana, one of five species known to occur in the park, and in roadside boggy areas, the tall white bog orchid, Habenaria dilatata, was quite common.

The most rewarding tour for flowers in the park was the relatively quiet 69 mile (110km) northern loop. Whenever somebody stopped at the side of the road, others would stop to find out what they had seen. This way we gained our first sight of bears in the park. ‘What are you looking at?’, we were frequently asked on our routine flower stops. ‘Only flowers’ we would reply, sending away the curious puzzled and disappointed. We could not understand why others did not share our delight at finding the beautiful yellow fritillary, Fritillaria pudica, or the galcier lily, Erythronium grandiflora, which turned up again here. Shooting stars, Dodecatheon, are spectacular to find in their natural habitat and we found two species here but we could name neither with confidence. Identification was a problem too with the Indian paintbrushes, Castilleja, of which there are around ten species in the area. Another of the day’s great thrills was finding Telesonix jamesii full of rose-coloured flowers growing in a limestone rock crevice.

Of Aquilegia jonesii there was still no signs, nor where the conditions right. We needed to be at much higher altitude. Only then did we realise that reference to a location in the Yellowstone area probably did not mean the park.

Still enveloped in fine weather, we left Yellowstone Park from the north-east corner through Silver Gate entrance. It was back into the skies again with Beartooth Pass reaching an altitude of 10, 947ft (3,336m) and a chance for more alpines. As a passenger, I enjoyed this route more than Eileen who had to concentrate hard on driving. The road leads through switch backs and hairpins with some precipitous drops around and through spectacular mountain scenery. On the pass itself we found the remnants of the recent snowfall, not covering the road but obliterating the carpet of alpines we were expecting to find. For once, we arrived early at our Montana overnight destination, Red Lodge.

The morning was cloudy and windy so we filled up with a hearty American breakfast of hash browns, fried eggs, streaky bacon and toast and opted for a relatively short hop to Lovell via Cody. This would leave time to visit the museum at Cody devoted to Buffalo Bill. Lovell too would be a good base for an early assault on the Bighorn Mountains the following day for our last major search for Aquilegia jonesii which we had long since christened ‘King of the Rockies’

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At least is was not cold although overcast again, so comfortably decked out in shorts, we set off into the mountains. Swirling cloud and a howling gale awaited as we rose to around 9,000ft (2,743m) and significant snow patches caused us further concern. Our first stop was in the area known as Medicine Wheel, a particularly barren area of limestone talus and scree. I braved the freezing cold to start searching for A j, Eileen refused to leave the car. After about 10 minutes and several choice alpines later, I had drifted out of sight. A frantic cry of ‘Brian, Brian’ dragged me away from examining a cushion alpine full of yellow flowers. Hastening back, expecting at least to have to beat off an attack by bears, I found Eileen pointing to the ground at the edge of a snow patch close to the car. ‘What is this?’ she asked knowingly, ‘I knew you were not looking in the right place!’

Route description

The tour started and finished in Denver and involved around 1,500 miles of driving spread over 15 days.

A three night stay in Denver, itself located over 5,00ft (1524m), is strongly recommended to start the altitude acclimatisation process.

The stages Denver to Georgetown (100miles) and Georgetown to Steamboat Springs(100miles) are short to allow time to explore botanically rich areas.

Steamboat Springs up to Green River (200 miles) via Vernal (Utah) passes Dinosaur National Monument. Excavations here have revealed 14 species of dinosaur. Admission charged to museum and grounds. The onward route passes through parts of the Flaming Gorge Recreational Area.

Rolling plains offer a contrast in scenery on the section north from Green River via Rock Springs to Jackson and a chance to see some rich flora of the sagebrush country.

There is an admission charge to enter the Grand Teton National Park but it also includes Yellowstone Park. Take the scenic diversion from Moose village to hug the base of the mountains and pass close to Jenny Lake.

Three days in Yellowstone National Park leaves just about enough time to enjoy the many points of interest. Booking essential for accommodation (tel: 307 344 7311) .

From Yellowstone to Red Lodge (116 miles) is a stunning drive over Beartooth highway.

Red Lodge to Lovell via Cody is another relatively easy day’s driving (106 miles). The Buffalo Bill Historic Centre consists of four museums with Bill Cody memorabilia, vintage firearms and Indian artifacts.

The highway over the Bighorn mountains connects to Interstate 25 which leads south all the way to Denver. This journey is around 500 miles and two night stops are suggested.

Information Panel

Aquilegia jonesii can be seen in flower from around June 20th for a period of 2 to 3 weeks but seasons can be both early and late. This same period is also good for many of the high alpines found in the Rockies.

Everybody is effected by high altitude to some degree and some breathlessness can be expected. Avoid rushing, anyone troubled by headaches, nausea, poor sleeping and unusual tiredness should retire to lower altitudes and seek medical help.

Alcohol and caffeine intakes should be reduced for the first few days and plenty of juices and water should be drunk throughout the time spent at high altitude.

Denver has a major international airport receiving flights daily from all parts of the States including the gateway airports.

Better terms for car hire, arranged before departure, are often available through agencies.

We used the Motel Super 8 chain (tel: toll free 1-800-800-8000) for much of our accommodation. They provide a directory and a freephone number for booking ahead. Other chains, Best Western, Choice Hotels and Days Inn are also well represented in this region.

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